Whether you have previously dyed your hair and been left with a few questions, or you are hoping to gather as much information as you can before you take the plunge, it’s important to know your hair so you don’t receive any unexpected results. All hair types are different; hair texture, colour, and hair health all contribute to the final result and how well the colour maintains itself.
So what factors should we take into consideration when questioning the longevity of our colour?
Your hair type can be a main factor in influencing the longevity of your semi-permanent colour. Hair health comes under the umbrella of your hair type as well as just your natural pattern and colour. Porous hair often results from over-processing with bleach, which damages the hair cuticle. The cuticle is the outer layer of the hair shaft, designed to protect the inner cortex. When hair is bleached, the cuticle scales are lifted to allow the bleach to penetrate the natural pigment. Frequent or intense bleaching can cause these scales to remain lifted or even break off, creating gaps in the cuticle layer. As a result, the hair becomes highly porous, meaning it has an increased ability to both absorb moisture and pigment and lose them quickly.
Porous hair struggles to hold a semi-permanent hair colour for several reasons. The lifted and damaged cuticles do not seal the colour effectively, leading to a quick pigment fade. Semi-permanent dyes work by depositing colour on the outer layers of the hair, relying on the integrity of the cuticle to keep the colour locked in. When applied to porous hair these dyes tend to wash out quickly as the compromised cuticle cannot hold them. In addition, you may find that the process of over-bleaching the hair has caused an uneven surface; this can result in a patchy finish as some areas may absorb more dye than others.
Not only can over-processing the hair result in porous hair, but you can also find it in natural hair types too! Natural grey and white hair can be quite porous due to the loss of melanin and changes in hair structure. Due to this, those with this natural colour type may find that semi-permanent colours can struggle to hold and stay in the hair. The naturally lifted cuticles of grey and white hair fail to lock in colour pigment effectively, causing the dye to fade faster. To try and avoid this from occurring we recommend using highly pigmented tones. These shades provide a more intense colour that can better penetrate and cling to the hair's surface. The Manic Panic Amplified Formula range is a great option for those struggling with porous hair. The increased pigment within the formula provides the hair with an increased chance of holding the pigment for longer.
Image @chloeshairstudi0
Moisturised hair plays a crucial role in ensuring that colour lasts longer. Healthy, well-hydrated hair has a smooth cuticle, which is essential for locking in colour pigment. Moisturised hair has a flat cuticle layer that tightly seals the cortex and prevents the colour from escaping. This creates a barrier that keeps the dye locked in for longer, leading to a more vibrant and longer-lasting result.
On the other hand, hair that feels and appears very dry tends to have raised and damaged cuticles that allow the colour pigment to escape easily. This results in faster fading and uneven colour. Using a hydrating shampoo and conditioner can help maintain the hair's moisture. At Manic Panic, we stock our own range of shampoo and conditioner designed to retain semi-permanent colour; these have been fortified using moisturising and gentle vegan and cruelty-free ingredients.
Deep conditioning treatments and hair masks can also provide intense hydration, further sealing the cuticle and providing extended colour longevity. Try the Manic Panic Mermaid Hair Repair Mask, now available in both 4oz and 8oz, pots to include an additional layer of moisture. This product has been carefully designed specifically to boost hair health whilst also protecting the colour itself. By keeping the hair well-moisturised, you not only improve its overall health and appearance but also ensure that your colour treatments remain vibrant and last longer.
Image @cassieolivia_hair
The texture of your hair can easily influence colour longevity due to differences in how various hair types absorb and hold dye. Coarse hair, known for its thicker strands, generally has a more resilient cuticle layer. This sturdy cuticle makes it more difficult for pigment to penetrate deeply, resulting in slower absorption of hair dye. Due to this, it can be more difficult to achieve the desired shade as this hair type may require longer processing times or multiple applications. However, once the colour is absorbed, it often lasts longer because the strong cuticle finds it much easier to hold the pigment.
Fine hair has a much thinner cuticle layer, making it more porous. We know that a more porous cuticle allows colour to be absorbed more easily meaning that fine hair allows the pigment to be absorbed much more quickly, often requiring shorter processing times. However, as mentioned above, this porous hair type that so easily takes on pigment is usually the first to release it too! The thinner cuticle does not hold the pigment as effectively, leading to faster fading.
Why not try out these tips if you are looking for a hair care routine to suit your colour application? Those with more coarse hair could extend their colour processing times and also include a deep conditioning treatment within their routine. A deep conditioning treatment will benefit this hair type by opening the cuticle and elevating the moisture level. On the other hand, those with fine hair should avoid over-processing; use lower developer types if bleach is needed and concentrate on a gentle and hydrating hair care routine so their hair continues a nourished lifestyle.
Image @kitti_at_the_art_house
Having a greater understanding of your hair type is highly beneficial should you wish to explore a new hair colour. Results are dependent on the base that the dye is applied to, from its colour to its level of health; a vibrant tone isn’t always guaranteed even if you have bleached your hair to the correct level. Take into consideration your hair type and first and foremost take care of its integrity!
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